Kwaeteow Naam at Don Wai Market
Address: behind Wat Rai Khing, 45 minutes west of Bangkok toward Nakom Pathom
Day 2 in Bangkok featured a half-day trip out to Don Wai market. This market on the banks of the Nakhon Chaisi River is an old one, over 100 years in operation from what I hear. Since I love observing the local culture in their environment, markets are one of my favorite travel destinations. It was still too early for much activity when we arrived at eight bells in the morning. Getting there involved a taxi to a bus terminal in BKK, a 45 minute ride on the highway toward Nakom Pathom unloading at a side road. We caught a ride with a local sarmlaw truck stopping at Wat Rai Khing, with Don Wai just behind.
After walking in from the dusty main road, past the Buddhist temple and through the initial plank walkways of the early morning market, we happened upon a clearing -- a riverside restaurant with the most peaceful of morning environments.
Across this bridge is another restaurant with boats for rent moored alongside.
Peaceful morning river scene.
May peace reign in all our homes!
And so my day of eating begins... a bowl of Thailand's most famous soup called kwawteow naam which means noodle soup. There are so many variations of this dish. I remember one of my favorite was in northern Thailand in a small town called Maesariang. I was motorcycling out of town along country lane when I spotted a farmer's wife and daughters selling this dish by the side of their home. I ordered a serving and took the bags down by a creek to eat. I will never forget the taste of real Thai kwaeteow naam made so lovingly by the hands of the farmer's wife. Also her kindness and gentleness with an understanding smile as I was probably one of the very few farangs who had ever had the wherewithal to try her soup.
But this kwaeteow was different. Rather plain compared to the Maesariang variety, but still authentic Thai noodle soup. You can call this a breakfast noodles. Like the Chinese who enjoy congee in the morning, this is a nice rice noodle way to mellow to the world!
This is the dear one who made that dish. A nice Thai lady!